New Skoolie Windows!

All but 2!! We now have five windows installed. Andi and I were fortunate enough to find new premium RV windows from a surplus on eBay called Tri-state Surplus for a fantastic price. 

These windows have a clamp ring for a 1 1/2” thick wall, a bit too thin for our bus considering we used 1 1/2” square tube (14ga) for our window framing (this matched our original bus framing). When you add the thickness of the new sheet metal (about 1/16”) and double that in the spots where the sheets overlap, and my wall is too thick to screw the clamp ring properly. Quick fix, cut up some plastic shims, and stick them in around the window before fully tightening your screws. 

Map the layout for your bus (you need to know where you want windows and how many before you buy). 

• Remove any original bus framing and sheet metal that stands in your way (your new window framing needs to sit flat to the inside of the sheet metal skin).

• Estimate how much steel tubing you need (in our case, we used two vertical pieces that measure 6 feet and go from floor to top of window framing along with two horizontals that measure 60 inches for each window, this method gives our window frames superior structural strength).

• Find yourself a welder, either buy or rent one and watch some YouTube videos on how to weld. (Thankfully for us, we have these skills and equipment already) Pro Tip! Start out with flux core wire. This wire makes it possible for you to weld outside in the wind and on dirtier surfaces. 

• Prep your steel, this means clean with acetone and prime thoroughly (the last thing you want is for your steel framing to start rusting inside your walls).

• Cut and weld in your window framing (be sure to weld all joints to the fullest extent, which means at least three sides of each joint).

• Clean and prime your welds (they will rust if you do not)

• Drill eight holes from the inside out, making a perimeter to follow on the outside, giving you the ability to trace lines for cutting (the holes need to be drilled at the start of each side of each of the four radius’s. For example, if you have one radiused corner, you need to drill your hole at both points where the curve stops being curved and transitions into straight).

• Move to the outside and connect the dots (for tracing the radius, trace your window and cut out a template).

• Cut your sheet metal (I experimented with this quite a bit, so trust me, the best way to cut these window holes out is to cut all the straight lines with a cutting wheel on an angle grinder while maintaining PPE long sleeves, pants, glasses, earplugs. Then, on the curved lines, use a Jig Saw with a fine-tooth blade, both of these can be rented at Home Depot).

• Debur rough edges, prime anything shiny (the cutting wheel will leave sharp, jagged edges so use a hand file to clean it up)

• Dry fit window (make sure your window fits in the hole you’ve cut and make corrections as needed).

• Get Butyl Tape (you can get this online but is cheaper at Home Depot).

• Adhere tape to the inside of the window flange (be thorough, don’t stretch the tape too much, and don’t let the tape protrude to the outside of the flange for you do not want to see the tape from the front side of the window).

• Peel the paper and wet the tape with water (the water will stop the tape from sticking right away, making it a bit easier with installation).

• Insert window, and screw in clamp ring (some might need an extra hand for this step to ensure the window doesn’t fall out while fastening. Some will also need to pre-drill holes to receive the screws, for this, use a drill bit that is just a bit thinner than the screw)

• Caulk around the window (I recommend clear if you’re not painting, but if you are, then it doesn't matter. Get sealant designated for exterior windows and siding, Don’t cheap out on caulk, more expensive is usually better in this category)

• Remove weep hole plugs (most all RV windows have weep holes to prevent water build-up inside the window).

• Examine caulk and paint around windows periodically for chipping or cracking and replace when needed to prevent leaking over time.